There’s nothing quite like the sinking feeling of pulling a load of laundry from the dryer, only to find it’s just as damp and cold as when you put it in. The machine was humming away, the drum was turning, but the one thing it was supposed to do—generate heat—simply didn’t happen. If this sounds painfully familiar, you’ve come to the right place. Before you call an expensive repair service, learning How To Test A Dryer Heating Element is often the first, and most important, step in diagnosing the problem. It’s a task that sounds intimidating, but trust me, with the right guidance, it’s something you can absolutely handle. Here at Clothes Dryer Guide, we’re all about empowering you to understand and master your appliances, and today, we’re demystifying one of the most common dryer failures.
Why Has My Dryer Gone Cold?
Before we grab our tools, let’s quickly understand what we’re dealing with. A dryer’s heating element is essentially a large, coiled wire, much like the one you see glowing red in a toaster. When electricity passes through it, the coil resists the flow of current and heats up. The dryer’s blower then pushes air over this hot coil and into the drum, drying your clothes. It’s a beautifully simple system.
However, over time, that thin coil can break or burn out. When a break occurs, the electrical circuit is incomplete, and the element can no longer produce heat. It’s the most common reason for a dryer that runs but doesn’t heat.
But First, Are You Sure It’s the Heating Element?
Hold on a second! Before you start disassembling your dryer, it’s smart to rule out a couple of other, even simpler, culprits. A wise DIYer always checks the easiest things first.
- The Lint Filter and Vent: A severely clogged lint filter or exhaust vent can restrict airflow so much that it triggers a safety thermostat to shut off the heat. Give your lint screen a thorough cleaning and check that your exterior vent flap isn’t blocked by debris or snow. This is a five-minute check that could save you a lot of hassle.
- The Thermal Fuse: This is a small, inexpensive safety device designed to blow if the dryer overheats. If the thermal fuse is blown, the heating element won’t receive power. It’s another very common point of failure. Testing it is similar to testing the element, and it’s often located near the element housing. If you want to learn more, check out our guide on diagnosing common dryer problems.
If you’ve checked these and your dryer is still cold, then it’s highly likely the heating element is the star of this particular show.
Getting Ready for the Test: Tools of the Trade
You don’t need a professional’s workshop for this job. You just need a few basic items to get started.
- A Multimeter: This is the essential tool for the job. You don’t need a fancy one; a basic digital multimeter capable of testing for continuity or resistance (Ohms) will do perfectly. It’s your magic wand for seeing electricity.
- Screwdriver or Nut Driver: Most dryer panels are held on with either Phillips head screws or 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch hex-head screws. Having a multi-bit screwdriver is a lifesaver.
- Gloves (Optional but Recommended): The inside of a dryer can have some sharp metal edges. A pair of work gloves is always a good idea.
- Your Phone’s Camera: Take pictures as you disassemble! It’s the best way to remember where every screw and wire goes.
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A Quick Word on Multimeters: If you’ve never used one, don’t be intimidated. For our purposes, we’ll be using the “continuity” or “resistance” (marked with the Omega symbol: Ω) setting. Continuity is a simple “yes” or “no” test to see if a circuit is complete. Resistance gives you a specific reading of how much the circuit is resisting electrical flow. Either one works for this test.
Safety First: The Golden Rule of Appliance Repair
Let’s get this out of the way, and please, take it seriously. We are dealing with electricity.
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, UNPLUG YOUR DRYER FROM THE WALL OUTLET. Do not just turn it off. Pull the plug completely. For electric dryers, this is a high-voltage 240V outlet, and it is not forgiving. Safety is not a suggestion; it’s a requirement.
The Main Event: How to Test a Dryer Heating Element Step-by-Step
Alright, with the dryer unplugged and our tools at the ready, it’s time to get down to business. The exact location of the heating element varies by brand (Whirlpool, Samsung, GE, etc.) and model (front-load vs. top-load access), but the process is generally the same. Most are accessible from a rear panel.
- Access the Internals: Pull your dryer away from the wall. You’ll likely see a main access panel on the back, usually a large piece of sheet metal held on by several screws. Remove these screws and carefully set the panel aside.
- Locate the Heating Element: You’re looking for a cylindrical or rectangular metal box (the housing) with two wires leading to it. Inside this box is the heating element coil. You can often see the coil itself through openings in the housing. It will look like a spring stretched inside a metal frame.
- Take a Picture and Disconnect: Before you unplug anything, snap a quick photo with your phone so you know exactly which wire goes on which terminal. Now, carefully disconnect the two wires from the terminals on the heating element. They might be simple slide-on connectors. You may need to gently wiggle them with pliers to get them off.
- Set Up Your Multimeter: Turn your multimeter on and set it to the lowest setting for Ohms (Ω) of resistance. A setting like “200” is usually perfect. If your meter has a continuity setting (it often looks like a sound wave symbol), you can use that instead. Touch the two metal probes of your multimeter together. You should hear a beep (on continuity) or see the reading drop to zero (or very close to it) on the resistance setting. This confirms your meter is working correctly.
- Perform the Test: Now for the moment of truth. Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the heating element where you just disconnected the wires. It doesn’t matter which probe touches which terminal.
What Do the Results Mean?
This is where you become a real appliance detective. Your multimeter will give you one of two clear answers about the health of your heating element.
- A Good Reading (A Closed Circuit): A healthy heating element should show a resistance reading somewhere between 10 and 30 Ohms (Ω). The exact number isn’t critical, as long as it’s a consistent, low number. If you’re using the continuity setting, you should hear a steady beep. This means the coil is intact and electricity can flow through it from end to end. If you get a good reading, your element is likely not the problem. Your next step should be to test the high-limit thermostat and thermal fuse, which are often mounted right on the element housing.
- A Bad Reading (An Open Circuit): If your multimeter screen continues to show “OL” (which stands for “Open Line” or “Over Limit”), “1”, or simply doesn’t change from its default reading, you have a bad element. If you’re using the continuity setting, you will hear silence. This indicates a break somewhere in the coil, creating an open circuit. Electricity has no path to follow, which is why your dryer isn’t heating. It’s time for a replacement.
As appliance engineer Dr. Eleanor Vance puts it, “The heating element is a fundamentally simple component. It’s a controlled short circuit designed to create heat. The test is equally simple: if the path for electricity is broken, the part has failed. The multimeter just allows us to see that invisible break.”
If you’ve confirmed a bad element, the good news is that replacing it is usually just as straightforward as testing it. You’ve already done most of the disassembly work! You can find a replacement part online by searching for your dryer’s model number. A new element is far cheaper than a new dryer or a service call, making this one of the most satisfying DIY repairs you can do.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can you test a dryer heating element without a multimeter?
A: Visually, you can sometimes see a physical break or a burnt spot on the coil itself. However, a break can be tiny and hard to spot. A multimeter provides a definitive, 100% accurate test. They are inexpensive and an invaluable tool for any DIYer, so it’s highly recommended to use one.
Q: How much does a new dryer heating element cost?
A: The cost varies by brand and model, but most replacement heating elements for common dryers range from $20 to $60. It’s a very affordable part, especially when compared to the cost of a new appliance.
Q: My heating element tested good, but the dryer still won’t heat. What now?
A: If the element is good, the most likely culprits are the thermal fuse, the high-limit thermostat, or the cycling thermostat. These are all safety devices that can cut power to the element. You can test them for continuity in the same way you tested the element. A good fuse or thermostat will have continuity (beep or show near-zero Ohms).
Q: Is it difficult to replace a dryer heating element?
A: In most cases, it’s a beginner-friendly repair. Once you’ve accessed the element for testing, replacing it usually just involves removing a few more screws that hold the housing in place, swapping the old element for the new one, and reassembling everything.
Q: My dryer gets a little warm but doesn’t get hot. Could it still be the element?
A: It’s possible, but less likely. An element usually works or it doesn’t. Poor heating performance is more often caused by restricted airflow from a clogged vent line running from the dryer to the outside of your house. Before replacing parts, ensure that your entire vent path is clear.
Wrapping It All Up
Congratulations! You now have the knowledge and confidence for how to test a dryer heating element. By taking a few minutes to perform this simple diagnostic test, you’ve moved from being a frustrated laundry-doer to an empowered homeowner. You’ve pinpointed the problem, saved yourself from a potentially expensive and unnecessary service call, and are well on your way to bringing the warmth back to your laundry routine. That’s a win in our book.
Have you ever replaced a heating element yourself? Share your experience or ask any lingering questions in the comments below! We’re always here to help.